I needed better work lighting than my existing point-source light so decided to put in a 24V strip instead of the usual 12V one since there’s lower I2R losses, this is a 120 LEDs/m 2835 strip.

Since I was using it to light a workbench rather than a room I didn’t really need the full light output so I decided so see what sort of performance I’d get from undervolting. This means there’s less heat generated, so longer life for the components as well as the adhesive used to hold the strip into the alu channel it sits in.

This is the strip at 17V, although the camera does a better job of compensating for the light levels than the human eye does, looking directly at it even at this level was a bit painful.

Here’s the results, with light levels measured at 50cm because that’s how far they’ll be from the work area. Treat these as relative rather than absolute since it depends entirely on how the levels are measured.

VoltsmAWattsLux
150014
16310.5105
17921.5380
181612.9630
192314.4880
203066.11130
213808.01390
2245610.01630
2353412.31840
2460914.62120
2835 LED strip output vs. voltage

So it’s quite possible to run this type of 24V strip at 22 or 20V, or even from a 19V laptop power brick as long as you’re not running it somewhere where radiating switching hash into the surrounding area is going to be a problem.

One response to “Undervolting a 24V LED lighting strip”

  1. […] needed to power the LED strip in this post from a non-switchmode power supply to avoid radiating switching noise onto the workbench, and after […]

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